Saturday 21st September 2019, Isle of Man
This morning we cut across country, avoiding Douglas, to explore the southern tip of the island. The entire Island is roughly thirty miles wide and fifty long. Our first stop was Ballasalla to investigate Rushen Abbey, the major medieval monastice foundation on the Isle of Man and home to the chronicler of the Kings of Man during the eleventh to thirteenth centuries. Not a great deal of the monastery remained although there were attractive gardens. We failed to find the Monk's Bridge, the other major site in the little village, though suspect we may have driven across it without realising.
Ballasalla. Isle of Man.
A couple of miles down the road we found Castletown, the former capital of the island where Rushen Castle is locate., The seat of the Kings and Lords of Man it is one of the most impressively complete medieval castles in Britain. Almost opposite it is the Old House of Keys, an 18th century building, unfortunately closed today for what was described as a "presentation".
Castletown is set along the river mouth with a harbour that is attractive even at low tide with the seaweed-draped rocks. It is a little town with all the old-fashioned charm so lacking in Douglas. it has a good range of local shops, at least three banks and delightful terraces of housing with gardens luxuriant with fuchsias in full bloom. We had an ample lunch in the Bowling Green cafe, watching the locals roll their woods across the immaculate green. Ballasalla and Castletown are both in the parish of Rushen which explains why one contains Rushen Abbey and the other Rushen Castle.
Castletown is set along the river mouth with a harbour that is attractive even at low tide with the seaweed-draped rocks. It is a little town with all the old-fashioned charm so lacking in Douglas. it has a good range of local shops, at least three banks and delightful terraces of housing with gardens luxuriant with fuchsias in full bloom. We had an ample lunch in the Bowling Green cafe, watching the locals roll their woods across the immaculate green. Ballasalla and Castletown are both in the parish of Rushen which explains why one contains Rushen Abbey and the other Rushen Castle.
Castletown. Isle of Man.
Castletown. Isle of Man.
Castletown. Isle of Man.
Castletown. Isle of Man..
Castletown. Isle of Man.
Castletown. Isle of Man.
Manx cat, Castletown. Isle of Man.
Port St Mary was our next stop, set around a curved sandy bay with hotels and shops along a promenade high above. The promenade led down into the fishing village, a workaday place, attractive but without enticements for the tourists. The few hotels and guest houses at that end of the town seemed rather run down or had been converted into private residences. We learned that towns on the island are in a drive to rebrand themselves. A tee-shirt had been designed saying Port St Mary - we hate Port Erin. Cut-throat competition for a dwindling tourist market perhaps!
Port Saint Mary. Isle of Man.
Port Saint Mary. Isle of Man.
Port Saint Mary. Isle of Man.
Around half a mile offshore from the southern end of of the Isle of Man, across the sound, lies the Calf of Man. This is a nature reserve for wild birds, seals and hardy sheep. There is a seasonal warden but over the winter period the island is uninhabited. Roughly sixty new seals are born on the Calf each year and there is an ornithological research station and bird observatory during the nesting period. A ferry crosses with supplies for the seasonal residents and the warden.
Calf of Man. Isle of Man.
Calf of Man. Isle of Man.
Calf of Man. Isle of Man.
Calf of Man. Isle of Man.
Calf of Man. Isle of Man.
Overlooking the sound stands a coffee shop and the venue is a hotspot for the Isle of Man residents who flock there to enjoy chocolate gateau and excellent coffee as they sit snug in the coffee lounge, sheltered from the strong, gusting winds of the sea, the landing area across the sound looking little more than a leap away.
We continued our way on a scenic drive above west coast with wonderful views across towards Castletown and the south-east of the island.
Earystane. Isle of Man.
South Barrule. Isle of Man.
Arriving at the village of St. Johns we found a megalithic tomb in the churchyard. There is also a Pinpound where stray animals we traditionally herded until claimed and a fine paid.
Remains of a megalithic tomb, Saint Johns. Isle of Man.
Ballaharra Stones, Saint Johns. Isle of Man.
The Isle of Man is believed to have the oldest parliament in the world dating back more than a thousand years and known as the Tynwald. The word is believed to be of Icelandic origin. The head of state is Queen Elizabeth II and she is represented on the island by a lieutenant governor.
The Island's national day is in July when all new laws and legislature are proclaimed from the Tynwald Mount. On this day the islands civic dignitaries gather in the churchyard of St. John's and progress along the ceremonial way to the mound where those assembled listen as the list is proclaimed.
Saint Johns. Isle of Man.
Ceremonial path leading to Tynwald Mount, Saint Johns. Isle of Man.
At Tynwald Mount, Saint Johns. Isle of Man.
Ceremonial path between the church and Tynwald Mount. Saint Johns. Isle of Man.
Tynwald Mount, Saint Johns. Isle of Man.
We returned to our campsite to find it heaving with caravanners from all over the island who had come to meet their friends, drink wine outside their vans while the children had open space in which to play safely. Sadly for them it was cold and before long the rain started. The atmosphere though was happy and friendly.
Sunday 22nd September 2019, Isle of Man
Today we drove again to Peel and walked on the cliffs around the perimeter of the castle before warming up in the coffee shop of the House of Manannan, an exhibition area and tourist information centre.
Mid morning the rain began in earnest so we drove to the outskirts of Douglas where we found some free parking and walked down through the drizzle into the town. Having stopped for a quick lunch we returned for a second visit to the outstanding Manx museum, an excellent choice for a wet Sunday afternoon. There had been fa too much to take in everything on our previous visit earlier in the week.
In the cafe Ian plunged into the Manx examiner, the island's newspaper, and we discovered something of the Manx economy with its offshore finance, money laundering and hiding of property speculation in London! Is this what we can expect from a post Bexit Britain?
Eventually the rain eased and we returned to the campsite to find it completely empty once more. It was the end of our final day on the island. Tomorrow we would have an early start for the ferry.
Monday 23rd September 2019, Cumbria
All went well for the ferry crossing early in the morning. The ship was packed and we shared a seat in the lounge with a group of enthusiastic motor cyclists who discussed, without hesitation, repetition or deviation, the intricacies of their vehicles for the entire journey. There can be little of which we remain in ignorance concerning the grease packing of overhead sprocket bearings as a precautionary measure before setting out for a quick scamper around the Isle of Man TT circuit!
Douglas. Isle of Man.
Douglas. Isle of Man.
Douglas. Isle of Man.
Douglas. Isle of Man.
Douglas. Isle of Man.
Cumwhitton. Cumbria.
Once ashore at about 13.15 we made our way up the M6 towards Carlisle to the remote and secluded campsite at Cumwhitton - not to be confused with Cumwhinton just a few rambling miles away!
