Sunday 19 May 2019
Church. Andrein.
We had made our way to the Béarn to meet up again with Ian's school friend John, now settled in a beautiful house deep in the countryside not far from Orthez, the town where he had worked as an assistant for a year back in the 1960s while studying modern languages at Oxford. Now retired after a career teaching French at secondary school, he and Alison were keen to show us his old haunts. Orthez is a town famous for its medieval bridge. We had visited it before but John was able to show us details we had missed, for example the towers on the bridge pitted with musket bullets fired by Wellington's troops during the Peninsula War. We saw the town museum, once the home of Jeanne d'Albret with the area refurbished since our last visit.
Museum. Orthez.
We climbed up past the school where John used to teach - not one of the more picturesque sights, it must be said - and reached the Tour Moncade, the remains of a castle which once dominated the town.
Tour Moncade. Tower. Orthez.
Then back home for dinner and much reminiscing and catching up on friends. We wondered which of the old Colfeians had achieved most satisfaction in life and rather dodged the issue by selecting their Latin teacher, Ron. John had cut out an article by one of his successors at Colfe's School with him in mind. Ian forgot to pass it on but perhaps you can read it now, Ron.
Latin at Colfe's School
During the war the school was evacuated from Lewisham to Tunbridge Wells, one of the places where John used to teach. 
Colfe's School evacuees.
We also had the opportunity to admire John and Alison's lovely house and garden - perhaps something of a mixed blessing as it cannot be left for long periods; it would become a jungle in their absence.
John and Alison's Garden.
John and Alison's Garden
Monday 20 May 2019
We all went to the nearby village of Laas for lunch. Its signpost reads:
LAAS
Village fleuri
Village sourire
Village étape des Pelerins
de St Jacques de Compostelle
1er prix de concours
VILLAGE QUE J'AIME
Tourisme en Europe Rurale
It is certainly a place with an eccentric mayor who had designated Laas as an independent principality, putting up a customs post at the entrance to the village. There were many inscriptions of a humorous nature around town and a square named after Brigitte Bardot who has acquired a house in the village.
Entrance. Laas.
Customs post. Laas.
Distance post. Laas.
The weather stone, a French version of an old chestnut. Laas.
Castle. Laas.
John and Alison at La Fontaine restaurant, Laas. After an excellent and very reasonably priced lunch we visited the medieval town of Navarrenx. We noticed an English brewery cashing in on the pilgrims that pass through the town. The strange name of the town derives from its position on the edge of Navarre and its border location led to extensive fortifications and military buildings.
Brewery. Navarrenx.
Gateway. Navarrenx.
Commanderie, Navarrenx.
Then back for our last night with John and Alison in their picturesque old house, so full of character and charm.
The barn and orchard
Jill and John in the orchard
Tuesday 21 May 2019We moved on today after two most enjoyable days, hoping that we will meet up again before too long. Our onward journey took us to Eugenie-les-Bains. We wondered which Eugenie it was named after. It turned out to be none other than Doña María Eugenia Ignacia Augustina de Palafox y KirkPatrick, 16th Countess of Teba, 15th Marchioness of Ardales (1826-1920). Mercifully she was known simply as Eugénie de Montijo for short and was the last Empress of the French, from 1853 to 1870 as the wife of Emperor Napoleon III.
Garden. Eugenie-les-Bains.
Garden. Eugenie-les-Bains.
Garden. Eugenie-les-Bains.
Spa. Eugenie-les-Bains.
The little spa town was very quiet and perhaps living on its past glories, but it was well maintained and it was pleasant to wander the parks and gardens with the curists.
Lily pond. Eugenie-les-Bains.
On to Aire-sur-l'Adour which Jill pronounced to be a bit of a dump - but sweltering temperatures did not add to its charms.
Cathedral. Aire-sur-l'Adour
Market. Aire-sur-l'Adour
The campsite at Lalin-Lapajou also proved to be a dump. We had fond memories of our last visit when rabbits peeped into Modestine and a peacock sat on the roof. It was very run down. The water was cut off at 8.00 for works in the village. Gone were the rabbits, peacocks and ostriches; there were just a few smelly goats and scraggy chickens as well as vanloads of tattooed dropouts.
Wednesday 22 May 2019
We spent a pleasant morning in Condom, the home of the three musketeers whose statue can be found in a square by the cathedral and we were there on market day, which was held by the cathedral.
Musketeers. Statue.Condom.
Cathedral. Market. Condom.
Our next discovery was Prayssas, an attractive little town with a shady Place de l'Hotel de Ville for a coffee, an charming old church and the grain measures on display near the Hotel de Ville.
Place de l'Hotel de Ville. Square. Prayssas.
Church. Prayssas.
Grain measures. Prayssas.
Mercifully the campsite at Pujol proved to be way better than the previous night.
