Wednesday, 5th September 2018, continued
Kirkmuir, Baroque Nissen hut, Prehistoric sites.
We'd reached our goal at John O'Groats but inevitably we itched to do that little bit more. Just beyond the centre we found the ferry port taking cars and passengers out to the islands. Watching the ferry loading up we crossed to the booking office to make a casual enquiry as to the cost of a trip out to Orkney's main island, called, confusingly, the "Mainland"! Finding it less expensive than we expected we asked whether there were places left for the following day. It was fully booked but, we were informed, there was just enough room to squash Modestine on the ferry that was on the point of leaving. They phoned down to the ferry to wait for us and we shot off down to the loading ramp which had already started to draw up prior to departure. Here we were initially told we'd need to board backwards but, to my immense relief, when they saw how small Modestine is, they realised I could go on frontwards and just squeeze under the upper deck. Seconds later we were bobbing around in the Atlantic, on a latitude with Norway and feeling at least as far from home as we do on our travels to Mainland Europe.
Modestine tucked under the ferry's upper deck. Pentland Firth. Scotland.
John O'Groats seen from the ferry. Scotland.
An hour later we drove off the ferry onto the tiny, deserted roads of Mainland Orkney and headed down to South Ronaldsay where we found the Tomb of the Eagles, a prehistoric site consisting of a neolithic cairn and burial chamber.
Ferry. Saint Margaret's Hope. Scotland.
We also discovered the Italian Church, built by Italian POWs interned here during the war. They were allowed free rein to decorate as they wished, the two end-to-end nissen huts that constituted their church in the internment camp. It still looked like a nissen hut from behind but it was ornately decorated in exuberant Italian baroque on the façade with elaborate trompe l'oeil decorations within. At the end of the war when they were released the Orcadians promised to continue to look after the church for them, which they have done. Some of the prisoners have returned since to see their church and carry out further work on its decoration!
Italian Chapel. Exterior. Lamb Holm. Scotland.
Italian Chapel. Interior. Lamb Holm. Scotland.
Italian Chapel. Interior. Lamb Holm. Scotland.
Italian Chapel. Exterior. Lamb Holm. Scotland.
Italian Chapel. Saint George. Lamb Holm. Scotland.
By evening we'd explored the south part of the island and we found ourselves in Kirkwall, the island's capital and the largest town anywhere in the Isles of Orkney. Here we found a state of the art tourist campsite, far better than anything we've discovered anywhere in Britain to date. What it might lack in Italianate baroque cherubs it makes up for with centrally heated showers and wifi! At £24 a night it is not the most expensive we've had to use on this trip but it is definitely the smartest, cleanest and best value for money.
Kirkwall. Scotland.
6th - 9th September 2018, Kirkwall, Orkney
This morning Kate sent us a photo of Pippa in her school uniform ready to start her first day! How the time has whizzed by since she came into the world! She certainly didn't look as if she would have any problem settling into school life!
We left Modestine on the campsite and wandered off to explore the town. Crossing the road outside we walked along the quayside leading into town. Out on the sea a huge cruise ship had moored up and we watched in fascination as the hundreds of passengers were ferried ashore and driven off in a series of coaches to visit the sights of the island.
Cruise ship. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Overlooking the town is the impressive and very agreeable cathedral of St. Magnus. Built primarily in local red sandstone back in the 12th century by Earl Rognvald, the great nephew of St. Magnus, also an Earl of Orkney, who had been murdered some 20 years previously in 1117AD. The sculptures and external decoration have suffered over the centuries. It was finally completed in the 15th century and the remains of both St. Magnus and St. Rognvald are buried in the walls of the cathedral. Rognvald died in 1158.
Cathedral. Saint Magnus. Plaque. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Cathedral. West front. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Cathedral. Monument. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Cathedral. Interlaced arcades. Kirkwall. Scotland.
There are numerous monuments to Orkney warriors and worthies from the past. A Norwegian king, Haakon, was briefly buried in the cathedral in 1263 when he died here while on an expedition. He was later removed back to Norway. A tablet commemorates John Rae, an Arctic explorer who discovered what happened to the earlier, Franklin expedition, when nobody returned. He found their remains in the ice and evidence of cannibalism. Several tombstones depict skulls as there is an Orcadian belief that the soul leaves the body through the left ear!
Cathedral. Haakon King of Norway died 1263. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Cathedral. Monument. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Cathedral. Monument. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Cathedral. John Rae Monument. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Leaving the Cathedral we climbed the hill behind the building where we found the Cathedral interpretation centre. We were offered coffee and cake, a custom we'd found charming when we were up in Scandinavia on earlier travels. We sat chatting with a delightful lady who explained some of the customs to us and also that the spoken language was not different but a definite dialect of English. About half the total 21,000 people living in all the islands have come in to live here from outside.
We watched a film about the history of St. Magnus, the building of the Cathedral and the lives of the Earls of Orkney. Later we found the town museum where we spent several hours discovering different aspects of the way of life in Orkney throughout the centuries. It has been an enjoyable and fascinating day.
Tankerness House Museum. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Tankerness House Museum. Garden. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Tankerness House Museum. Neolithic mace heads. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Tankerness House Museum. Viking carved slab. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Tankerness House Museum. Fair Isle knitwear. Kirkwall. Scotland.
Tankerness House Museum. Orkney chairs. Kirkwall. Scotland.
We found a small cafe in the town where we had a late lunch and coffee around 2pm. It is actually sometimes quite difficult to recognise a shop for what it is. So often they just look like people's homes!
Walking back to the campsite I was relieved to see a garage selling fuel. I probably have enough but our abrupt departure from the Scottish mainland yesterday meant I never thought to check my fuel level before leaving. Tomorrow we will want to travel around the island and make our way to the Stone-Age site of Skara Brae.
The centre of the archipelago of islands that make up Orkney was linked by four "Churchill barriers" during WW2 when a German submarine contrived in 1939 to break through and sank a British vessel in Scapa Flow.These barriers today ensure a sheltered area between the linked islands and mean that the roads can now pass straight from one island to another along the top of the barriers, linking several of them together and greatly improving communication. The construction of the barriers that ensured enemy vessels could not enter Scapa Flow, was carried out by Prisoners of War, including the Italian prisoners mentioned earlier.
Churchill Barrier. Wrecks. Burray. Scotland.
Churchill Barrier. Lamb Holm. Scotland.
Friday, 7th September 2018 John O' Groats
This morning, back on Orkney, we woke to a steady fall of rain. Once we were ready to leave it had fortunately eased somewhat. We'd already decided to visit Skara Brae, the stone-age village that proved so seminal in current understanding of the way people lived and developed their knowledge of the use of tools. Happily for us, although windy and overcast all day, the rain stopped and we did all we intended in relative comfort.
First we drove to the second largest town on Mainland Orkney, Stromness. It appeared rather drab and deserted when we arrived and parked near the entrance into the town. The main street looked like a back alley and with delivery vehicles to the few shops it was difficult for us to negotiate. From the narrow, cobbled commercial street lined with a few shabby shops, a cafe and a charity shop supporting the Cats Protection League, a couple of small alleyways ran steeply up to the main road above, that bypassed the town centre. The residents obviously have a sense of humour, naming the alleys "Kyber Pass" and "Hellover Hill"!
Monument to the Arctic explorer John Rae. Stromness. Scotland.
Khyber Pass. Stromness. Scotland.
Main Street. Stromness. Scotland.
Palm tree! Stromness. Scotland.
Canon. Catptured from American privateer. Stromness. Scotland.
View from Ness Road. Stromness. Scotland.
Ian now has a new obsession. He keeps photographing Blue Plaques as well as manhole covers! It's like taking a child for a walk! However, I do admit that Stromness has more than your average village haul of notable worthies. So many seem to have been outstanding and eccentric. From here ships travelled north to the whaling waters; The Hudson Bay company took on water from a freshwater well at the far end of the town; a resident led his fellow townsmen in a campaign to stop paying their rates to the main town of Kirkwall demanding that the money be spent locally, directly for the benefit of the residents of Stromness. We found plaques to local poets, and even one to a woman who had suffered something or other outstanding (I forget what) in Australia back in the 19th century!
Plaques. Stromness. Scotland.
It had been raining steadily throughout our stroll and down beside the harbour we watched the ferry crossing to Thurso leave, before seeking warmth with a hot coffee in the local pub. Here we steamed gently and once moderately dry ventured back on to the streets to rejoin Modestine.
View from Ness Road. Stromness. Scotland.
Eventually we reached Skara Brae and the rain and wind had temporarily blown themselves out.
Skaill. Plan. Skara Brae. Scotland.
Skaill. Walk back in time. Skara Brae. Scotland.
The neolithic village today lies on the seashore in the grounds of a lovely 18th century house once belonging to the local laird. After a particularly heavy storm around 1850 he discovered huge areas of sand from the beach had been blown clear, revealing the almost intact remains of a neolithic village. It was a small community of up to 100 people, each living in family units with around 10 houses overall. Originally built as separate, independent units, over time passageways had been constructed linking the houses. These were eventually covered over and the village became semi-buried in the sand, covered by a grassy roof leaving it indistinguishable from the surrounding dunes. Each of the circular huts had a central hearth used for cooking, heating and light. Behind stood a stone dresser where food was stored and pots, crockery and artefacts displayed. There were built-in beds around the wall. Today they are seen as no more than stone troughs but filled with dry heather and covered with sheepskin fleeces they would make comfortable sleeping accommodation. The settlement was built in the middle of an ancient midden from an even earlier occupation. This was similar to a modern day compost heap, but massive, containing anything and everything discarded by earlier occupants. This was used as cement and insulation on the outside walls of the houses helping to maintain stability and to act as insulation.
Skaill. Reconstruction. Skara Brae. Scotland.
Skaill. Reconstructed house. Skara Brae. Scotland.
Skaill. Skara Brae. Scotland.
Skaill. Skara Brae. Scotland.
Skaill. Skara Brae. Scotland.
Skaill. Passageway. Skara Brae. Scotland.
Skaill. Skara Brae. Scotland.
Skaill. Skara Brae. Scotland.
Skaill. Skara Brae. Scotland.
Skaill. Skara Brae. Scotland.
The island was fertile, providing the village with everything it needed with fish and sea food from the adjacent sea and shore, with wild animals - rabbits, birds, wild deer from the surrounding countryside, and with sheep and cattle which could be reared by the villagers. They were an organised, confident and skilled community able to use tools and create items that they needed. Everything was there for them and they made the best use of absolutely everything. Their lives looked to have been comfortable even by today's standard for us with our life in Modestine! They may not have had electricity or have been able to move from place to place but they had spacious, comfortable homes with the raw materials to create what they needed. Hot stones from the fire would heat their water which in turn would cook their food. Oil from seabirds and fish would provide light and heat, as would driftwood from the beach. It almost looked sufficiently exciting to try for a limited period! The internet would be one modern-day luxury I could happily manage without. I'd be less keen to lose out on my daily hot shower though.
Our ticket also gave us access to the laird's house. This was something totally different. It stands in a stunning location with a lovely formal garden in front with views of the surrounding landscape from the windows on the upper floors. It is much as it was left when the trust inherited it. In all honesty perhaps the cosy fire in the library with a selection of Scottish novels and afternoon tea on the coffee table did look rather more inviting than the village in the dunes down beside the rolling sea!
Skaill House. Skaill. Scotland.
Skaill House. Bishop's bedroom. Skaill. Scotland.
Skaill House. Skaill. Scotland.
Skaill House. Dining room. Skaill. Scotland.
Skaill House. Drawing room. Skaill. Scotland.
Skaill House. Drawing room. Skaill. Scotland.
Next we drove to see the nearby Rings of Brodgar, a circle originally of some sixty standing stones out on the hillside, of which maybe half still exist. It is something like Stonehenge but possibly even older. They were presumably used for ceremonial events. They were less exciting though than exploring where people actually lived and reconstructing their life style. The local stone would have been perfect for these early settlers. It splits easily into thin sheets usable for tiles and roofing. At Brodgar the stones still remaining were thinly split and carefully shaped. They were all very tall, dominating the empty landscape from far off.
Ring of Brodgar. Stenness. Scotland.
Finally, heading back towards the ferry for our return crossing to John O' Groats we passed the Stones of Stenness, a similar ancient circle but with only around a dozen stones. We did not stop to investigate further.
Standing stones. Stenness. Scotland.
We lead charmed lives. The wind dropped, the sun came out and we arrived at the ferry terminal to collect one of the last available tickets for the next crossing. We were loaded on last into the same little corner to be found on almost every ferry crossing we have ever used that seems reserved specially for Modestine. We had a pleasant return to Scotland though we were disappointed to have seen no seals or dolphins despite passing so close to other Orkney islands on our journey. We were the last to leave the ferry, waiting until the crew would release us from the tight corner into which we'd been guided.
From Pentland Ferry. Hoy. Scotland.
Uppertown. Stroma. Scotland.
Two miles back towards John O' Groats we remembered seeing a small campsite when we headed to Orkney a few days ago. It stands right on the cliffs. At £10 a night it is the cheapest place we've found for a long time but it is clean with hot water and has everything we need. As we ate supper a huge rainbow formed a perfect arc overhead as the sun set, leaving the sky suffused with glorious colours. Then the rain and wind began. We were comfortable enough under all our blankets but regretted the tea we'd drunk earlier in the evening, necessitating a night-time visit across the soaking wet grass to the loo! The rain was horizontal and as almost nothing up here grows to more than three inches in height, there was absolutely no protection from the gale blowing in from the sea! Once again we were lucky to have caught yesterday's evening ferry, I would not wish to be crossing any time today! The owner of this campsite told me the ferries are Taiwan ferries and they are awaiting a new one as the current one has seen better days. As we were stuck on board a few days ago when the bow door refused to open on arriving in Orkney, I am rather glad our trip is now behind us! I've heard too many disaster stories about Taiwanese ferries to feel completely safe in rough arctic seas up amongst the offshore islands of the Scottish mainland!
